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Cooking Bacon

Tuesday, May 21st, 2013

In honor of Camp Bacon, we’re sharing an excerpt from A Pocket Book of Bacon that comes to you with one of your yummy shipments of the Bacon Club from Zingerman’s Mail Order. We’ll also have a few of these books on hand at the Street Fair. Enjoy!

Different method, different texture, different flavor. We recommend trying ’em all and choosing your favorite for the recipe at hand. Note that if you need drippings for your recipe, you’ll want to cook your bacon in the skillet or oven.

Skillet

The key here is to start with a cold skillet. We like to use a well-seasoned cast iron pan, though a non-stick pan works well too. Place the pieces of bacon side-by-side in the skillet, and turn the heat to medium. When the bacon starts to brown, check to see if it releases easily and carefully turn it using tongs. Cook on the second side until it’s done to your liking. Note that some bacons, like Irish back bacon, will cook much faster than others. Remove and drain on paper towels.

Oven

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Cover a large baking sheet (one with a 1/2- to 3/4-inch lip to catch the grease) with parchment paper or foil. Place the raw bacon side-by-side on the parchment paper. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes until bacon is done to your liking. Remove bacon to paper towel-lined plates and pat dry.

Microwave

There are many tools out there to help you with your microwaved-bacon skills—many available on infomercials on late night television. We’ve chosen the good ol’ plate-and-paper-towel method here, which works great for a few slices. In this procedure, you will not get any usable drippings. Line a microwave-safe plate with several layers of paper towel. Lay up to 6 slices of bacon across the towels. Cover the bacon with a few more layers of paper towel. Microwave on high for 4 minutes. (Cooking time will vary according to the microwave and number of slices of bacon you have.) Remove the bacon from the paper towels and serve.

Campfire

You can cook your bacon in an iron skillet over the fire just like on the stove at home. If you’re feeling a wee bit more adventurous, you can also cook it on a stick. The risks of losing a slice of bacon to the fire are about equal to that of roasting marshmallows over an open fire, so if you get emotional over lost bacon you might not want to try it. The perfect time to roast is when you’ve got a nice layer of hot coals going and the fire is not too high. Fold a slice into thirds and skewer it on a long stick. Roast it until it’s cooked to your liking.

Save Your Bacon Fat

Next time you cook a batch of bacon, let the grease cool until it’s safe enough to pour through a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth into a glass canning jar. Make sure to filter out the small bits of meat that could cause the fat to go rancid. Keep it around for those times when you want to add more flavor to your dish than you’d get from a spoon of butter or olive oil. How should you store it? Folks have been resting jars of bacon fat next to their stoves for centuries without much incident so you can certainly go that route. For safety’s sake, we generally recommend storing it in your fridge where it can last months. John T. Edge, writer, culinary historian, and cultural commentator par excellence grew up in Georgia where his mother always kept a Dundee jam jar filled with bacon grease next to the stove: “She started every dish with a glug of bacon fat.” Sounds like heaven.

A Few Ways to Put Bacon to Work in Your Kitchen

Wrap a dried date (or one of your favorite dried fruits) and a piece of cheese with a half-slice of bacon. Run a toothpick through it and bake it in the oven.

Try an Ojibway tradition and top your oatmeal with a few chopped slices of cooked bacon.

A tip we learned from the Romans: drop a raw slice of bacon rind into your pasta water to enhance the flavor of your pasta.

For 42 more ways to put bacon to work in your kitchen, see Zingerman’s Guide to Better Bacon or email us for more ideas at zingpress (at) zingermans (dot) com.


Get ready, Chicago!

Thursday, April 18th, 2013

We’re headed to the 3rd Annual Pastoral Artisan Producer Festival on the 27th of April. Make your travel plans now–there will be plenty of great food to taste. This a FREE tasting and meet-the-maker event featuring producers of artisan cheese, bread, beer, wine, charcuterie, confections, and other food stuffs.

John and Aubrey from Zingerman’s Creamery will be there with a wonderful array of cheeses, alongside some of our favorite artisan producers.

Right there with them, Ari will be talking about bacon and books! Among our hand-picked books that will be available, he’ll have The Story of Traditional Wisconsin Cheese on hand.

Stop by, say hi, and treat yourself to a yummy book-buying experience.

 


Tasty Excerpts and Recipes

Wednesday, April 10th, 2013

Zingerman’s 4th Annual Camp Bacon is coming soon and to help get everyone prepared, we’re sharing tasty excerpts and recipes from Ari’s book, Zingerman’s Guide to Better Bacon over at the Zingerman’s Community blog. We’ll be sharing some here too!

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In Adventures of a Bacon Curer, one-named British author Maynard (“may-NARD”) mentions a no-longer-existent pig-related profession: the journeyman-curer. In early 20-century England this was the man who “would come down and kill the pig. He would stop overnight and cure the pig the next day, and that was the ritual. It was important that he did it correctly as that was the main meat source for the winter.”

In her Irish Traditional Cooking, Darina Allen describes a similar scene: “…on my relative’s farm in Tipperary,” she writes, “a local man skilled in the killing of pigs would arrive on an ass’s cart, bringing all the tools of the trade — a mallet, a knife, a saw, an apron, and a galvanized bath. He was highly thought of and had to be booked ahead.” I can’t say that these journeymen have disappeared entirely, but I’ve not (yet!) heard tell of one still in business.

No one I’ve asked in the U.S. remembers such curers here. The closest I came was in a story from baconmaker extraordinaire, Allen Benton: “In the hills of Virginia, it was common to have someone in the community who would go around at hog butchering time and help the neighbors slaughter the hogs and help work up the meat. They were usually paid either money or in fresh pork.”

Back in Britain, Maynard writes that there are quite a few stories about the old journeyman-curers and how they were compensated. “Sometimes they were paid in surprising ways,” he writes, “And sometimes,” he goes on, “they left a few children behind.”


Handmade Books

Tuesday, November 27th, 2012

We’ve been busy cutting papers, punching holes, and sewing… books! Our little chapbook on Sardines was a hit at the State of the Book last month, and our Wisconsin Cheese book caused quite a stir of excitement at the Wisconsin Cheese Conference recently.

Each of these titles are part of a first edition of handmade books produced in Ann Arbor by us! A limited number were lovingly made using a simple three-hole pamphlet stitch. The Wisconsin Cheese chapbook has a special insert with an interview with Ed Janus.

The text was written by Zingerman’s co-founder and best-selling food writer, Ari Weinzweig. They were designed in the classic Zingerman’s style. The text was printed on sustainably-forested paper made in the United States. Whether you love sardines, cheese, or handmade books, we think you’ll enjoy these unique chapbooks.


Sustainable Business and Bacon at Muddy’s

Tuesday, October 16th, 2012

On Thursday, October 18th Ari will be at Muddy’s Bakeshop in Memphis, Tennessee talking about two of his favorite subjects, sustainable business and bacon. If you’re not familiar with our friends at Muddy’s, here’s a clip from their website that gives a great picture of what Kat and the gang do very well:

http://www.muddysbakeshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/apples-and-cucumbers.jpgMuddy’s is a small neighborhood bakery made of up of people who have chosen to pursue a career where they connect with their community through baked goods; we do this because we love to bake (and eat!) and we love people.

Muddy’s is for you if:
you want to connect with the people making your food.
you care about good ingredients.
you need a little boost in your day… or want to give others a boost!
you enjoy delicious baked goods that are made with care.
you value a business that values its employees.
you want to help pass on the positive energy and good will.
you want to participate in the experience.
ya get it!

The event will be from 6-7 pm. Ari will be speaking,  then signing copies of Part 1 and Part 2 of the Leadership series, as well as Zingerman’s Guide to Better Bacon. Come on by and say hello!


The State of the Book and Ari’s Thoughts on Books

Wednesday, October 3rd, 2012

The State of the Book

This Saturday, October 6th, 10 am-7 pm the University of Michigan will co-host a literary symposium called The State of the Book at Rackham Auditorium. Free to the public, this event will focus on Michigan writers in partnership with several nonprofit literary organizations. The schedule of events is absolutely stellar. Come for all or part of the day, and be sure to pay a visit to Zingerman’s Press when you do. We’ll be at the Book Fair in the lobby. See you there!

Thoughts on Books

In honor of the State of the Book event coming up, we thought it’d be fun to post an excerpt from Zingerman’s Guide to Good Leading Part 2, A Lapsed Anarchist’s Approach to Being a Better Leader. Enjoy!

You don’t need to be much of a futurist to forecast that in the coming years old-style books are likely to fall ever further behind electronic media in terms of everyday importance. I should know—I never go anywhere other than jogging, to the beach, or to bed without bringing my computer. I know a lot of people have already written books off as old-fashioned and unnecessary baggage, justly jettisoned in the interest of easier access to information. When you add in iPads, smart phones, video games, DVDs, YouTube, Facebook, ebooks, and whatever else someone out in Silicon Valley invents in the coming decades,  it might well be that paper is practically a thing of the past. I hope not, though. Business and leadership aside, I do have a case to make for bound books.

Interestingly, although books had nothing in particular to do with their politics, the anarchists were all about putting things into print in artful and aesthetically pleasing ways. Many had a serious love of learning, literature, poetry, and prose. Emma Goldman regularly spoke and wrote about theater, and the list of writers and artists who associated with anarchists is long and prestigious. Anarchist books were often as interesting for their art as for the intellectual activity inside: drawings, woodcuts, and etchings abound.

Some of the most amazing of the anarchist work was put out by Joseph Ishill and his Oriole Press. A Romanian Jewish immigrant to the United States, he published over 200 pamphlets and books on his hand-cranked press in Berkeley Heights, New Jersey. Many were small chapbooks of poetry and the like, but some were more substantial collections—300- or 400-page tributes to the anarchists, anarchist ideas, artists, and free thinkers he knew and held in high esteem. The two volumes of Free Vistas he produced—the first in 1933 and the next in 1937—are truly some of the most beautiful books I’ve ever seen. They’re definitely about anarchism, but they’re also incredible works of art. Each was printed, by hand, in very limited editions—less than 300 copies. Each volume includes a dozen types of paper, each of different textures, colors, and sizes, all bound together into very beautiful books. Each edition has a goodly number of remarkable woodcuts and sketches, woven in with articles, essays, politics, and poetry. To say they are amazing is an understatement—if you’re into books, I’d make the trip to Ann Arbor just to go see them in the Labadie Collection on the seventh floor of the Graduate Library.

While I’ve certainly read old anarchist work online—working on the web is great when I’m in a hurry, and it’s a lot faster to copy and paste than it is to retype the parts that I want to transcribe—I still would far rather read it all in the original. When I look at the copy on the computer I feel a little like I’m reading a half step or so removed. There’s just something to be said for holding the paper, the same, slightly weathered and worn pages that someone, maybe not unlike me, might well have held in their hands a hundred years ago. Emma Goldman’s essays certainly read fine and for free online, but, for me at least, the spirit is far more sensually present when I actually hold my well-worn copy of her pamphlet, “The Place of the Individual in Society,” in my hand.

It’s with that sort of stuff in mind that, three years ago, we made the move at Zingerman’s to go back to putting out our own books—to, as author Hugh MacLeod admonished, “ignore everybody” and move away from the big, not-so-much-fun (for me at least) world of mass-market publishing and go our own way. It wasn’t a snap decision. When I’d opted to do a couple of books with mainstream publishers earlier on, I made that move mindfully as well. I’d heard enough stories to know it might not be ideal for me, but I figured I should try it firsthand before I ruled it out altogether. So I did. It’s hardly evil, or horrific, and there are far worse fates in life than having to put out a book with a big publisher. But I’m about a hundred times happier doing it on our own; for me, our way definitely beats the highway, even when the “highway” means a far higher rate of short-term sales.

The book you’re holding right now has its issues (what doesn’t?), but the decision to go to print with them was no one’s but ours; while we don’t have control (see page 279), we do have a very high degree of influence. When I hold one of our books in my hands, I feel the same way about it as I do a loaf of handcrafted bread from the Bakehouse, hand-ladled, paper-wrapped goat cheese from the Creamery, a made-to-order sandwich from the Deli, a carefully constructed fresh candy bar, or a rack of ribs (nine hours of smoking, braising, and steaming before they’re ready) from the Roadhouse. I appreciate the paper quality, the design done by our staff, the scratchboard drawings, and the feel of it every time I pick up a volume to show it to a customer. While the words inside are the same in a book that’s printed on poor quality paper with a suboptimal sense of design, well-made old-fashioned books do feel better! At the small scale at which we’re working, there’s a connection between the writer, the editor, the designers, the people who produce them, and the folks from whom you’re buying them. It’s the same sort of shorter, mindful supply chain we’ve worked so hard to establish with what we eat. Only in this case it’s about products that are in print, not on your plate.

Going back to the small-scale publishing of the anarchist world of the early 20th century, not far behind Free Vistas on the beauty scale was a book Joseph Ishill issued as a tribute to Élie and Élisée Reclus. While you’ve likely never heard of them, the brothers were apparently special people and very highly respected back in their day. Élisée was a world-famous geographer, and his older brother, Élie, was a world-renowned anthropologist; both were also avowed anarchists. The Oriole Press book, published in 1927 (two decades after the two had passed away), is a collection of essays, letters, and articles by and about the brothers. In the introduction, Ishill himself wrote about its production: “One by one,” he said, “the pages [of this book] were set up and printed by a single pair of hands, and the first crow of the neighbor’s cock, indicating the passing of midnight, was the signal for me to ‘lay off’ for the night. In spite of handicaps, however, I never felt really fatigued with my work. There was always nervous energy to eke out the physical, and I felt a certain exaltation in the thought that I was burning the candle at both ends, [and] it was for a social cause. I felt what almost every other individual would feel in a society differently constituted from the present one. I was doing the work I loved—doing it with enthusiasm, if not physical strength, unimpaired.”

To use Wendell Berry’s worldview (see pages 28–29), that is as about as good as good work can get. Joseph Ishill’s art, his books, and his insights are all pretty inspiring. He closes out the introduction with something that struck me, book lover that I am, as very timely. “Until the dawn of a more luminous day,” he wrote, “let at least the few in quest of truth and beauty find their meed of content in the written word. Nothing, alas, in this era of harsh reality can quite take the place of books.” I’ll stand by what he said—times are still tough, so, for me at least, nothing really takes the place of a well-made book. To Mr. Ishill’s point, great books are beautiful; if you couldn’t already tell, I love them. Which is why, then, I really wanted to make books that I love, books that are in synch with all the other traditional, carefully crafted foods we’re selling here at Zingerman’s. I hope that we’ve at least come close to succeeding with what you have in your hands.

One last note and a bit of book-oriented laugh, so to speak, for the road. In her biography of Emma Goldman, Red Emma Speaks, author Alix Kates Shulman shared that the queen of the anarchists “was arrested so often that she never spoke in public without taking along a book to read in jail.” I hope none of us will be getting arrested any time soon, but it’s not unlikely we will get stuck in an airport, arrive early for a dinner date, or find ourselves waiting for our doctor to finish with the previous patient. I guess you can probably just do email on your phone while you wait, but, hey, why not bring a book? And, better yet, one that’s on nice paper, that feels good when you hold it in your hands, and, even better still, in your mind when you work your way through its contents.